DECEMBER 28, 2007 / Issue 174
"Michael Keenan continues to impress me with the quality of his wines and readers need to take notice of what is going on at this beautiful winery on Spring Mountain. The 2006 Chardonnay, which is primarily from estate vineyards, is reminiscent of a top-notch Chablis. It exhibits aromas of crushed rocks, spring flowers, white currants, lemon zest, and a hint of citrus oil. Medium-bodied and crisp, with no oak in evidence, this is a beauty to drink over the next 3-4 years."
"The elegant 2005 Merlot reveals a sweet berry-scented nose with notions of roasted herbs, crushed rocks, and subtle wood as well as road tar. This medium-bodied, well-balanced, silky Merlot should be consumed over the next 5-8 years. An outstanding effort, the 2005 Merlot Reserve Mailbox Vineyard retains the elegant style, but ratchets up the level of concentration and complexity. A fragrant, red currant, sweet cherry, roasted herb, and mocha-infused nose is followed by a full-bodied wine with lovely elegance, finesse, sweet tannins, and long, layered fruit flavors that cascade over the palate with no hard edges. It should drink well for 10-12 years. Another stylish offering is the 2005 Mernet Reserve, a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot (350 cases). It exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue in addition to an attractive bouquet of white chocolate, licorice, and sweet blueberry and red cherry fruit, medium to full body, and well-integrated tannin, acidity, and wood. This Margaux-like red can be enjoyed over the next 10-15 years. Keenan has done a fabulous job with the 2005 Cabernet Franc, a varietal that excels on Spring Mountain. A beautiful nose of menthol, black raspberries, blueberries, and flowers is followed by a fabulously intense, yet light on its feet, wine. Medium-bodied with excellent fruit and palate penetration, it never seems to tire or become overbearing. This is a gorgeously pure, lovingly textured effort to drink over the next 10-15 years."
"Primarily from estate vineyards, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits notes of ripe raspberries, blueberries, and kirsch interwoven with spicy oak, subtle wood, and earthy undertones. With silky tannin and decent acidity, this medium-bodied, elegant Cabernet should drink nicely for 10-15 years. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve possesses more blueberry, raspberry, and floral notes, an elegant personality, full body, and outstanding depth, richness, and texture. Enjoy it for 15+ years."